View Full Version : Sur...Sea Waves from the Past


Thug4Life
27-04-05, 11:52 PM
I realy had a big dream when this sabla was opend...to be able to talk about each and every city,village, intresting site in Oman...So Sabla can be a Good source of collective information...for Omanies and non Omanies to Know about OMAN! Our Beloved country...Alone I cannot do that..I need each and every one of you to talk about a place he knows about in Oman...and it would be wonderful to provide a picture (1 or 2 small pix are more than enough)...in his/her thread.....with the URL of the source of the article please if avaliable.
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SUR

The last time i was in this city was 10 years ago...and I simply loved it. My grandfather was burried in Sur..as he was a sailor and a business man traveling to east africa in duration of 6months/6months :)and his spot return was SUR! such a Life haa? 10 years ago I was amazed by the beauty of this city located in the Sharqeyah region.

The much development that happend during the era of HM.Sultan Qaboos reflected in each and every corner in this BIG city...AMAZING! and Spectacular.:3mani: :3mani:
When I asked about the origin of its name Some one told me it goes back to the ancient days of phenecians (if i spelled it right) those whom inhabited Bilad el sham...specificaly Lebanon/Syria...Some say there is Some connection between the SUR in Lebanon and The Omani Sur!....I dont know how much is this true...correct me if am Wrong!...
heres some info i got from a site talking about Sur..(will provide the link in the end).....................

==========================
PART 1:
http://www.nwnet.co.uk/qalhat/yaqub/_derived/major_cities.htm_txt_Sur3.gif

SUR is a coastal town in the Sultanate of Oman. There is nothing spectacular to mark the entry into the harbour but sailors for thousands of years have known of its reputation as a good port, to weather a storm. Between the mainland and the village of Ayeja, is the channel that has for centuries been a safe anchor for fishing and cargo vessels. All along this deep sound, no both sides, are the famous dhow building yards of Oman. Many changes have taken place in Sur and the country in general, but the seafaring traditions of Sur are as strong as they were when Marco Polo visited the coast.

Sur's fame as a centre for shipbuilding goes back centuries and is closely linked with the maritime heritage of Oman. The earliest residents of Sur looked to the sea for subsistence. The hinterland was arable, but water for irrigation was hard to come by. For these people, a visit to the Malabar coast was far more rewarding and satisfying. Each year after the monsoon winds had spent their force, they sailed across the ocean to barter dates, frankincense and dried fish in exchange for rice, lentils and condiments. The more enterprising sailed on to Sri Lanka and then beyond, through the Strait of Malacca to China. People living in the coastal areas around Tirur and Ponani still recall the visit of the Omani vessels. "The Omani has come; the Omani has come" was a familiar piece of bazaar news.

Sur has had links with the Malabar coast from ancient times. Marco Polo recorded that the boats built at Sur were stitched together with twine from the coconut. The Arabic word for rope is Kayar. The teak wood for the boats came from the slopes of the Western Ghats; in fact from Sur, the teak logs were re-exported to several other countries as well. One type of boat in Oman is called the machuwa, just like it is in parts of Mattanchery. The links exist to this day; not as strong as they used to be, but with a type of mutual feeling that speaks volumes for the glorious days.

Thug4Life
28-04-05, 12:06 AM
PART 2


In the last century and until four decades ago Sur was famous for boats called the boums, the baghalas, the ganhja, the battil and the dhows. Not all of these are made today. On the waterfront, under construction are vessels that will be used for harbour cruises as well as for fishing. Cargo vessels of 300 to 600 tonnes will perhaps never be built again. Supervision on the spot are reticent about the order book and the work on hand; it is certainly not what it used to be. The last luxury yacht to be built was made for Dr. Omar Zawawi. The shell was built in Sur and later the vessel was taken to European ports for completion. "Nobody builds boats like that anymore" says a man who was associated with the building of the Zawawi Yacht. People of Sur are not content to let history forget their excellence in the area of shipbuilding. The shipwrights have joined together with the local authorities to buy back a handsome ganhia that was build on those very shores. This vessel had ferried cargo for decades and had then been sold to traders from Yemen and later to a trader in Dubai. Today the people of Sur have bought the vessel back paying a large amount of money. Craftsmen are now repairing and refurbishing the vessel. The vessel will now remain on the waterfront at Sur. As the supervisor on the site said, "Our grandchildren will see this and understand how their forefathers worked to built these vessels. It is the last of these generation of vessels; if we had got it there would be nothing to show for the work done in this town." Shipbuilders of Sur have never used drawings or computer aided design to do their work. The human eye has been the only instrument that has been in use for everything from design to final alignment. Sur's waterside memorabilia will be an added bonus for tourists who come to Sur.............

The links that Sur had with West Coast of India still continue. The wood for the vessels still comes from Malabar and so do most of the workers. On the waterfront at Sur are workers who come from Vypeen, Cochin. Badagara and other places on the West Coast. Little has changed in the manner in which the boats were built. Boats tied with coir or the sewn ships are no longer made. These have been replaced with grant nails; each nail is coated with fish oil and covered with a twirl of cotton before being hammered into the wood. Electric drills and saws are used, but all the old tools are still around. Craftsmen from Malabar still add the decorative touches on the bow; a type of bas relief work now done with a drill like machine and finished with the hand................

Sur enjoyed a brief spell of glory ten years ago when Tim Severin chose the site to build his sewn boat for the expedition to China. This stitched dhow re-traced the journey of Omani mariners by sailing from Muscat to China. The first leg of the voyage brought Severin's vessel, the sohar to Beypore. Today, this vessel is a showpiece and rests in the middle of one of the traffic islands in Muscat.

What future is there for a place like Sur which has seen such a glorious past? As a town Sur has metamorphosed from a small village into a modern place with every conceivable amenity. On the waterfront, change is permanent; the old dhows will have to compete with the outboard and the fibreglass, but the traditions can still be preserved by teaching youngsters to build actual models of the boum, the baghala and the ganjha. There is no dearth of place in Sur to race these models and no better way to communicate a glorious heritage.
link:
http://www.nwnet.co.uk

Thug4Life
28-04-05, 12:08 AM
Last Part:
heres a small info about The NAME SUR ... and its relation to Lebanon Sur :)
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There is an opinion that Sur was the actual home of the Phoenicians before they emigrated to establish the Sur in Lebanon. According to Dr Mohammed R Bhacker "This legend can be traced to the Greek historian Herodotus who, writing in the 6th century BC, says that the Phoenicians of Tyre (Sur in Arabic) in the Lebanon themselves told him that their ancestors came from the Gulf where they had had trading settlements all along its shores and Islands.



After leaving Oman and settling down in Greater Syria, they are said to have built a town in the Lebanon giving it the same name of Sur (Tyre) to remind them of their erstwhile home town in Oman. Recent archaeological evidence has thrown considerable doubts on this theory but it remains an intriguing thought." The Omani researcher and translator Mohammed Eid Alaraimi stressed in a study which was published in A'siraj Magazine in October 1992 that "whether Sur was Pheonician or not, it is certainly a reputed town and an important historical harbour. Its coast provides the needed protection from both winds and waves. Its long and peaceful bay is a secured resort for the sailors from the sea turbulence. In addition, its location at the mouth of Wadi Fulaij leading to the interior of Oman enabled her to become an important town through the years, precisely after the deterioration of her sister Qalhat in early 16th century."
http://www.newsbriefsoman.info/features/ghanjar.htm
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I know its Long BUT I HOPE that you enjoyed the thread
I will try and provide it with few small pix of omani ships that Sur was famous in building in later if I CAN otherwise it would be very nice if any one else would share this thing with me :)

NaBHaN
28-04-05, 12:21 AM
I personally have never been to sur. But excellent Information you have provided here Thug , I really loved the title 'sea waves from the past'.

Thug4Life
28-04-05, 12:31 AM
I hope that it came out in an intresting format...
never to forget to thank the sources...they really did a great job in writting such article(s)

Any more comments and info as I said more than welcomed...
Soon Inshallah Will talk about another city...another place....another site ...In Oman :)

Thug4Life
01-05-05, 01:09 AM
aaa333 didnt find a reliable source with pictures of old ships built in Oman..specificaly the different types built in Sur with picture :S

Arabian Princess
01-05-05, 08:56 AM
Sur is beatiful and peacful!

I went there in January and enjoyed the relaxation !

Amir
02-05-05, 03:07 AM
Been to Sur recently and went to Bahwan's dhow or whatever making place that is. It's beautiful but something that grabs my mind is Sur looks like Beypore in Calicut, in Kerala, India. Those Indians working there are mostly from there too, or so I understand from their Malayalam accent. A few Omanis (old men to be specific) are assisting those people in making those beautiful ships or dhows. Its really beautiful, the wood is brought from Malaysia I understand and very few from India, since India restricted cutting trees nowadays, especially the Sandal trees in South.

Remember Guys one of the Sheikhs earlier brought a ship that is capable of caring 1000 tonnes or was it 100 tonnes..can't remember... however he made it from Beypore. But again that place is linked with Sur from very old times, since the Omanis used to go and get spices from Calicut in India... My grandfather was one of them, and he used to tell the stories of the process they used to do, they get spices from India, they give pearls in return as well as gold. They take them to Kuwait and on the way back the set in Bahrain and get back to Oman and then to Mombasa in Kenya nowadays, and again to Antebeih or is it Antebeh island then to Zanzibar in Tanzania... the whole story when I hear it I remember the voyages of Sindbad the sailor.

SadLad
14-05-05, 02:22 PM
oh... You can not imagine how great I'm feeling today. Ma city is being appreciated here.You really made me feel :) Thugy.
If anyone wishes to visit Sur, they may contact me ;)

Thug4Life
15-05-05, 11:38 PM
oh... You can not imagine how great I'm feeling today. Ma city is being appreciated here.You really made me feel :) Thugy.
If anyone wishes to visit Sur, they may contact me ;)am glad that you liked it gives me the thrill

ANY ONE knowS the MEANING of ((SUR))????????:think:

jack
15-05-05, 11:52 PM
am glad that you liked it gives me the thrill

ANY ONE knowS the MEANING of ((SUR))????????:think: Not in arabic, but in spanish it means "south"

Cute_One
16-05-05, 12:00 AM
sur is beautiful ive been there with my lovely cousins and aunty and had a great time ..

anyways, Qatar still imports till this day the boats that are beautifully made in sur .]

samy
20-05-05, 12:49 AM
Waaaaaaaw ..visiting the sablah after long time .. and guess what i saw first :) .. i would like to thank all those who participated in this thread and to Thug who started it .. :cute:

well i would like to add onething .. regarding the source of the name .. u did mentioned the most appropriate one thug . but it original arabic it also means the tough un-breakable Stone . but according the researchers the first one told by thug is the right one
a new book will be published soon about the international historical inputs of Sur . and i will do my post to make it feasible to all of u inshalah :)

Thug4Life
20-05-05, 12:54 AM
Waaaaaaaw ..visiting the sablah after long time .. and guess what i saw first :) .. i would like to thank all those who participated in this thread and to Thug who started it .. :cute:

well i would like to add onething .. regarding the source of the name .. u did mentioned the most appropriate one thug . but it original arabic it also means the tough un-breakable Stone . but according the researchers the first one told by thug is the right one
a new book will be published soon about the international historical inputs of Sur . and i will do my post to make it feasible to all of u inshalah :)thats intresting to know
Thanx for your input
am awaiting for your near future posts about Sur :)
...Streets, People, Souq, weather, beaches, special places, a spot in Sur with a specific ancient story? Oldy Tales about Sur...
There is Much more to say about Sur...BUT those whom are from Sur know better!!!

Storm
20-05-05, 01:04 AM
nice info Thug ,,, really enjoy it ,, its nice to know all these about oman as i have my father family from oman *** ya ,, my original from oman **,, i loved all the info that you posted here and hope to know more :)


Been to Sur recently and went to Bahwan's dhow .

what are Bahwan's dhow :think: ,, i really wana know it

Storm
20-05-05, 07:38 PM
hey guys ,, no answer :os

i really need to know the answer for that :think:

Thug4Life
21-05-05, 01:00 AM
hey guys ,, no answer :os

i really need to know the answer for that :think:That was brought by Amir ..wished if he answered you ...seems he is away...
ANY way:

A dhow is a ship (the traditional one)...(sailing vessel used by Arabs)...

also written dow...

Now about the Bahwan one...That Amir specified above...I have No Much idea about It...BUT this link MIGHT help:

http://www.newsbriefsoman.info/features/ghanjar.htm

Has SOME very intresting info about the Dhow (ghanjah) :)

You its pitty that I couldnt find any More Info about The Omani built Ships/Sailing vessels in English!!! ....

I wonder if any one out there got some hand in this ?

Thug4Life
24-05-05, 11:35 PM
The new Sur Coastline Road Will indeed be something great!!!!

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 07:56 PM
On the 29th of this month descided to head to Sur!
Been some time since the last time ive been there.
The road to Sur is not difficult to take. From Muscat starting from Al Sahwa Roundabout...the Highway...dual till reaching to the point decsion should be made to Go to Sharqeyah or Dakheleyah....Sign marking Sur after reaching Fanja. (trun right Yoz!)...

Passed through many villiges and Welayats...one of the Biggest is Welayat Ibra...>>>
the road was single offcourse but new and Modern, didnt get any humps or bumps around!
the side views ranges from flat desert and Golden Desert Sands *like in Bedeyah* to Mountains, to Palm trees farms.....

fasilities avaliable all through the road...So no worries...

The Set marking point was when reaching to Al Kamil Wil Wafi... there if you there is a Road that can make you reach to Al Ashkharah and hence to Ras Al Had....then you can Still reach to Sur.
but if you continue your straight root....YOu will reach to Sur directy !and So I did...

in Summary:

It takes around 3-4 hours drive to reach to The City of Sur...
The road is new and clean
Side views joyfull
you will pass through the Mountains With the BIG wadi (al Aq) beside you...
Be carefull while driving..that road just like Batenah road full of nutorious riders!!
occationaly you will be faced with strong winds!
Motels are scatterd through your route but once reaching to wadi al aq there arnt any!Now Will jump to Part 2: when I reached to Sur!

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 08:02 PM
Once I reached Sur...my first impression: Such a Modern City that Didnt loose its Omani Marking and Touches that Indeed travels towards you from the past!....

I could compare Sur to some extent to Sohar...one of the Places I really Love..
roads, roundabouts, lights, shops, Souq/traditional Markets, Al wafi cinema...Mosques, Old houses.....YET

MY AIM was The Ship Yard!!! where they make those traditional Ships in Sur....as well the Harbour!...I had to delay this to the Next day cause I was planning to go to Ras Al Had And Ras Al Jynz to have a view on those two places....And of most...Witness the Turtles reservation area! This will be my talk in Part 3....

Serveral Hotels in Sur present ranging from 3-5 stars...
The locals are very very friendly and helpfull and indeed you wont be feeling that you are a stranger there!!! People are indeed nice in Sur!!! I salute them :)

Rossonero
30-11-06, 08:03 PM
Thanks for the info, planning on doing a roadtrip like this when im back in Oman

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 08:36 PM
At 8pm moved from the hotel heading to the turtles reservation area (ras al Jynz)...
They told us you have to be there before 9pm because the Guide will show you the turtles *if they are avaliable* around that time.

The road to the reservation not difficult and clear...takes around 45 mints to reach it if you move out from the City of Sur.

The fee of enterance is 1 R.O per person.
I must say that area is still under development Seems that the Ministry of tourism is doing some constructional stuff over there now!

Once we entered the reservation area it was (PACKED) with people.
the area is surrounded by some scattered wonderful looking mountains
and the place got alot of huts made by I guess the Ministry for the porpuse of Camping....(oh if you camp/stay ther for a night you will pay 3 RO fee)

offcourse I wasnt planning to camp this time.
The guide told me that this time of the Year its NOT the season for turtles to show and lay their eggs...BUT occationaly if we are lucky enough we might get 1 or 2!

The guide was very helpfull gave us some rich information about the Green turtles...
The Green Turtles are the type that lay egg in Al Jynz reservation Cost..
they detcted some whom reach even to Maldeef and Sub Indian Continent even to china coming from Oman!??!

At a time one turtle lay around 80-160 egg...
and depending on where the egg burried *(mostly about temprature differnce though) the gender of the offspring shall be determend!!

the Nearer to the sea...the more chance the turtle will be female...Mid point...Mixed....farer for the Seashore....females :)

we awaited and awaited...the weather was fine...Suddenly we saw a BIG black cloud...covered the sky with thunder...and the temprature Dropped dramaticaly! it was frosty cold!!! lasted for 1 hour and so but it did not rain then!!! (lucky enough...we wanted to see the turtles)

OOH 1 turtle spoted so we were called...(wait...cameras NOT allowed with FLASH!!...u can take without flash!)...disapointing eeh! but nothing is away from modern technology though I had some problems with my camera sooo didnt get clear pix unfourtionaly!!!)...

BIG turtle moving its way towards the sand of the beack trying to dig..so it can lay its egg....Wonderfull....Mission accomplished...

peace of advise:
IF you would like to camp in such a wonderfull place....WHY not its recomended BUT GET everything with You cause the place so far is empty except from the hats! :)


So we moved back to Sur the City...on our way thunder Thunder and poooffffff....Wonderful heavy heavy BIg droppes Rains...it was Magestic I must say!

now to my Final Part....Will dedicate it for few pix Including Shop Yard ones ;)
Enjoy!

Rossonero
30-11-06, 08:43 PM
Thanks again bro :)

What is the best season to camp there?

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 08:44 PM
Heres we were waiting for the turtles to come in Al Jynz Green Turtles Reservation area:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture082.jpg
Views of the Costal Areas in Sur
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture080.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture079.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture077.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture076.jpg
Views of Sur (from Al Ayjah Tower) the above as well
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture075.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture074.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture073.jpg
The above some more pix links!
The Bellow : THE SHIPS YARD:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture070.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/Picture071.jpg

http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/Thugyy/?action=view&current=Picture072.jpg

Rossonero
30-11-06, 08:50 PM
Thanks for the lovely pics :)

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 08:55 PM
http://www.mangaloreworld.com/images/stories/baab/travel/giant_turtles/Rasaljinz21.jpg
http://www.mangaloreworld.com/images/stories/baab/travel/giant_turtles/Rasaljinz28.jpg
http://www.mangaloreworld.com/images/stories/baab/travel/giant_turtles/Rasaljinz9.jpg
http://www.mangaloreworld.com/images/stories/baab/travel/giant_turtles/Omanmap.gif
From the LinK (thankfull)
http://travel.sulekha.com/blog/2006/10/an-odessey-of-giant-turtles-ras-al-jinz-oman.htm?contributor=Baab%20Mallya

Rossonero
30-11-06, 08:59 PM
Why arnt you allowed to use the flash?

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 09:01 PM
Why arnt you allowed to use the flash?
any noise or lights/flash will distract the Turtles :)
By the way if you want to get a GOOD picture of these turtles YOU can go there at 4am :) thats another timing ;) 4-6am that offcourse if you dont have an infra red high tech digital camera with Nightframing and shoot abilities

Rossonero
30-11-06, 09:03 PM
Whats the best season to go there?

Why dont we make a Sabla Trip there? ;)

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 09:05 PM
Whats the best season to go there?

Why dont we make a Sabla Trip there? ;)
JUNE, JULY and AUGUST is the Mating and egg lying season (BEST) Many turtles...

The Eggs Hatch early morning (fajir) during Late november and December ;) (another GOOD time ;) )

Rossonero
30-11-06, 09:11 PM
So if I go at the end of dec. would I witness it?

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 09:12 PM
So if I go at the end of dec. would I witness it?
depends on your Luck!

Charm
30-11-06, 10:27 PM
Good pics man :) Lovely city!

Thug4Life
30-11-06, 10:29 PM
ON my way Home I spoted a Rainbow In Wadi Auq...Unfourtionatly As soon as I stoped my car to take a photo of it...it fainted!

There are Many wonderfull Sceens in Sur that Cameras will always be limited to give it its full right of beauty...I was telling my wife this:
what the Eyes See surely differ from what the Camera captures!!! even if it was of the very same sceen!!!!!!!!

toxic_honey
01-12-06, 06:31 AM
Sur is SomethinG!!
I JUST love it there

specially the BEACH!

Rossonero
01-01-07, 02:30 PM
Im going today

Tiny Heart
01-01-07, 03:01 PM
I've always wished 2 visit Sur.... And after reading this thread... It only got me more into it.......

Hopefully soon in sha Allah....

Thnx Thug 4 this wonderfull infos :)

UmKhalid
02-01-07, 11:11 PM
Photos of Sur ...

Heres a photo of Bibi Mariam's tomb - Qalhat

http://www.meeeem.com/community/gallery/files/3/8/4/Picture1008711.jpg